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March 2008

March 26, 2008

The First Springtime Haul

Fruitveg

I got excited about buying produce for the first time in ages last night at my local shop. There were vibrant colours and interesting options. Not everything was a root vegetable or a miserable apple.

It was also the first time I went to the shops after work and got home while it was still light. That's the setting sun illuminating those lemons.

And it was definitely the first time since I started writing this blog and posting accompanying images where I haven't had to boost the saturation and lightness and contrast of the photos to make them look less beige. Less like stodgy winter food.

I made this first:

Potato_salad 

It's a warm potato salad with roasted green onions on top. The onions were washed and trimmed, tossed with olive oil and then roasted at 200 degrees for 20/25 minutes. I then tossed boiled potatoes, shaved fennel, a little bit of tarragon and a few boiled eggs together a vinaigrette and topped the whole mess with the onions once they were done. I scooped out a big bowl for my dinner and added a dollop of creme fraiche.

I made this while everything was boiling for the salad:

Compote 

Well, the compote part anyway. I took my stalks of rhubarb, a little bit of water, a bunch of raspberries, some raisins and some chopped candied ginger and stewed them all up. It was good, but tart. Too tart for breakfast. I'm weak in the mornings. So I added some sugar. Ten minutes prep and cooking time. Now it's perfect and it made for a pretty phenomenal bowl of cereal this morning.

And I have some definite plans for all those Meyer lemons and purple sprouting broccoli up there, too. Those guys are really going to get it tonight.

That's it. I'm over the long, slow cooking of winter. I'm going to ignore the fact that I biked to work in snow flurries this morning. I want the instant gratification of spring and summer. now. now. now.

March 20, 2008

Things I Did to My Little Sister

Img_1274Last week my little sister, The Squirt, came to stay with me for her March Break.

Here are some of the fun things we got up to:

We waited around all morning for the telephone guy to come and hook my phone back up. Unfortunately, in a fit of misplaced nostalgia and complete idiocy, the telephone company had sent the engineer to my OLD ADDRESS. Fuck nuts. My sister learned the important lesson that phone companies are stupid all around the world.

We organized my recipe collection. Coloured coded and everything. My sister said "that was fun!" (she was serious. she's way less sarcastic and better adjusted than I am.) Bless.

We figured out which attributes we inherited from our dad. We have different moms see, and we both bear more than a passing resemblance to them, so it was a fun game to see what Dad had thrown into the mix. Plus there's added intrigue because my dad doesn't know very much (actually anything) about his biological family (we're good at making our own non-biological families in my family). Like even though my sister is skinny and I'm pretty curvy, we both are way more hippy than our moms. Must be from Dad's side. Isn't that interesting? We would also both like to thank our father for his gift of masculine ankles. Really, thanks. What a lovely thing to pass along to your daughters.

We went to Edinburgh and climbed an extinct volcanoImg_1276 . My sister complained that her hips were hurting. I told her to suck it up. It was good for her. Doesn't she look pretty and exhilirated? She's actually thinking about what the windy damp climate is doing to her hair.

I made her wear makeup to look older so we could get into bars easier.

I also made her change her purple-striped socks to little fishnet ones so we could get into bars easier. My flatmate looked at her, laughed and said 'you're going to be soaked!'. I told him where he could go. It didn't rain that night and my sister didn't die of pneumonia. She was just a bit chilly. I lent her a scarf because grownups wear them and we would still be able to get into bars. I would have been very, very remorseful had she died, Dad and Ri. I promise.

We got into bars, easy. Not that we got drunk or anything. My sister is still an underage 17 and I am not that irresponsible. Besides, we are Canadian and outside of university settings we don't like to ever admit to being drunk. That our father will occasionally drink two (pretty) large martinis on a (pretty) empty stomach before dinner and then fall to his knees playing the air guitar is not a sign of his alcohol consumption. He's just happy.

We attended art openings where we watched experimental video art. Ha! We had to climb loads of stairs to get there, too. But there was free beer so The Squirt was fine. She decided that if she needed to comment on anything she saw she would say that the videos made her feel 'invigorated'. I thought that was an elegant solution.

We danced! My sister had never really gone before. She was understandably nervous, but once we got out there, she was on fire! The Squirt was such a trooper. Since dancing is pretty much one of my favourite things ever and since I don't tend to take drink or pee breaks once I get out on the floor, it was an incredible feat of endurance to keep up with me. She boogied with aplomb. I almost cried.

I pointed out every bursting bud and lovely flower that Scotland had to offer. "See?" I said, "It's already spring here. It won't be like this in Toronto for another month or two. Hahahahahaha. You little sucker." My sister appreciated my observations and insights.

And then we ate. On top of being force-fed a load of Tunnock's products, I made her pancakes and cheesy pasta and garlicky toast with greek salad. We shared a deep fried Mars bar. It was ridiculously good. I am not allowed to eat another one for three years. We visited the candy shop on Byres Road and sat on a sunny bench in the Botanic Gardens to eat our sweeties. We went for chips after our manic dancing, too. She and J laughed when I asked for cheese on my chips. Then they got jealous when my chips were more delicious than theirs. We had very buttery scrambled eggs on toast the next morning, since nothing is better after a late night. She ate BLTs whenever she got the chance.

I bought her steak at a really lovely new restaurant in Edinburgh called The Dogs because I am an excellent and generous sister. I couldn't believe our luck in finding this spot, really. This place was centrally located, almost perfectly decorated and featured a really interesting and affordable menu of British dishes. J and I both ordered the special of the day: braised ox cheeks with horseradish mash and pearl onions. It was so delicious and the really tart and bitter slivers of pickled walnut on top brightened and balanced the flavours perfectly. My very carnivorous sister left a pink-stained plate from her exceptionally rare steak and chips. She was pretty content. The staff were lovely, too. I would have liked a dark and bitter beer to go with my meal and unfortunately the beers on offer were a little boring. They probably care more about wine, but I didn't look at the list and stuck to ginger beer instead. Anyway, this place is good, and if you are ever playing tourist in Edinburgh and wandering around without a plan, you could not ask for a better place to stumble into for dinner.

For her last night I cooked a big British meal. I made my favourite Scottish soup, Cullen Skink, a rich and creamy smoked fish chowder. The recipe I used is here. The only thing I would change is perhaps using 1l of milk instead of 750 ml. I let it reduce a little more than the recipe recommended (you should too) and it wound up just a bit thick. It tasted wonderful, though. And it's so easy. I made a bunch of steamed purple-sprouting broccoli to go with it and a loaf of oatmeal bread. And while the jam roly poly I baked for dessert was, um, horizontally challenged, my custard was perfect. I've never made perfect custard before and I forced J and the Squirt to marvel at my talents for much longer than either of them cared to.

  Img_1282

Before I kicked her back home we went and got the first ice cream cone of the season from Queen's Cafe on Victoria Road (we look stupid in the photo because we haven't adjusted to sunlight yet). We both got mint chip and sat on a sunny bench in the park once more. Awww. It'll be ages before she can do that back home. Ha.

I miss her already, too. Anytime she wants to come back and organize my recipes and drain my bank account, she is more than welcome.

March 19, 2008

Inside the Tunnock's Factory!

Headband Last Wednesday I took the day off work and accompanied the  lovely Mair on a tour of the TUNNOCK'S FACTORY!

I wore my shiny red headband to mark the occasion.

Mair and I had been looking forward to this trip for a long time. Being rabid fans of tea cakes, machines and field trips, this was pretty much a dream come true and I couldn't sleep the night before.

But still, despite our steel-clad optimism we were concerned that this trip would be disappointing, that somehow the magic of those shiny yellow and red treats would fade for us. That illusions would be shattered.

I am pleased to report that this was not the case. Instead we came back raving like sugar-high maniacs about how wonderful the factory was. Those of you who are skeptical about pretty big companies selling sugary products to the masses may wonder how we could be so devoted and uncritical, but this place really is something. It's just so cohesive. There's nothing to break the spell of a pleasant building, filled with laughing pleasant people, rolling out millions of chocolate and marshmallow and caramel treats everyday. Tunnock's both seem to have a deep understanding of the kitsch value of their brand (just look at their website) and an uncomplicated and retro way of producing their wares.

Let me show you.

Mair and I started this day with a trip to Uddingston on the outskirts of Glasgow. It's cute there. We went to a cake store that had more wedding cakes than I had ever seen.

Wedding_cakes   

Next we went to the Tunnock's bakery across the street from the factory. Here you can buy the normal range of tea cakes and caramel logs and wafers, as well as more obscure varieties like the dark chocolate tea cakes. Wrapped in gold and deep blue these suckers are hard to find. You can also get a whole range of cakes, breads and pies that one would never associate with Tunnock's. But knowing that there would be a lot of sugar in store for me, I decided to get some protein in the form of a bacon roll. Mmmm. Pork and salt and butter and a whisper of bread. Delicious.

Bacon_roll

Here's Mair outside the factory. It was sunny! We were going to see them make tea cakes and it was sunny! All my memories of that day are washed with euphoric delirium. Sugar and sun will do that to the dwellers of Scotland. (the clock has a tea cake on it, by the way. awww. so cute.)

Factory

Mair is tiny compared to the many storeys of wafer and caramel production.

The thing you can't tell from the picture is how we are both swooning from the roasted coconut scented breeze that wafted around the factory. There was also a note of melting chocolate. How could we possibly help ourselves?

We waited in reception for our guide, Brendan. See, isn't this a great reception?

Entrance

It would have been horrible to walk into something really corporate and soulless, but there was just layers and layers of paraphernalia and old signs and friendly relaxed people. In the bottom right corner you can just make out a little skiing figure made out of a tea cake box.

We were nervous about Brendan, though. You see, he's the Health and Safety manager. Getting a tour from someone in that position sounded like a dull prospect. At lot of officious behaviour and not getting too close to things and boring facts about the safety record of the place. We didn't need to worry; Brendan was alright. This wasn't going to be a tour of the fire extinguishers or top tips on dealing with caramel burns. Once we got kitted out in our fancy hairnets, white coats and ear plugs, we went straight up to the caramel and wafer machines.

Buckets

Here's some buckets of sugar (Mair was pleased to see it was brown - she's such a health nut) that are getting ready to go into the caramel boilers. You can also see part of a cute uniform in the top left corner. Awww.

Spout

Once the sugar and fat and condensed milk and stuff are all caramelized, the delicious goo pours out of a tap and into a trough and all the way to a cooling area.Caramel_pour

It gets thinly spread.

Ripple

And then it's collected at the end. Look at that. It was so difficult not to just chow down. The bucket of vegetable grease on top helped to kill the urge.

But ignore that and look at this:Closer

Amazing.

Anyway, next we went to see how wafers are made. Pauline

Here's a worker named Pauline. I think she's mixing or measuring something for the wafer batter.

It was really difficult for Mair and me not to be very patronizing to the people that worked at the factory. I sort of thought of them as magical treat elves. Clearly working here is just a caramel and chocolate infused job and not actually a passport to a magical kingdom of delicious miracles. I really tried to remember that and not smile insanely at everyone I saw and not make my "awwwww" sounds too loud. Such a jerk.

Anyway, the wafers are basically made like waffles, and then they go here to cool.

Wafer 

And then there were the tea cakes.

Cookies_4

Here are the cookie bases on their way to the oven. I got to eat one of the baked ones off of the production line. Thanks Health and Safety Man! It was good, but I have to admit I like it better when it gets slightly soggy in the actual tea cake.

Conditioning

The biscuits get packed away in tightly and are conditioned for a day. This stops the tea cake from cracking when all of the amazing stuff goes on top of the the cookie base. Mair stole a biscuit. (Brendan said it was ok.)

Tea_cake_line

This guy was doing quality control for the tea cakes. He had a huge glob of marshmallow in one hand that he used to grab the defective cakes. He then separated the cookie from the marshmallow and threw them into containers. All the broken and ugly tea cakes get mashed up and reused in the cookie dough. They just adjust the sugar content accordingly. Weird, huh?

And actually of course, as Brendan pointed out, it's not marshmallow so much as a cooked Italian meringue (basically egg whites whipped into a hot sugar syrup). That's what makes it nicer than other marshmallow biscuits that use gelatin and end up gummy and gross.

My pictures of them getting their chocolate coating are boring/bad, so here they are ready to be packaged into boxes:

Tea_cakes 

The packaging was really awesome. Honestly. It was like one of those educational bits they had in Sesame Street or the Polka Dot Door (Cancon requirements met for the week). But this was real life and I was a grown up and I wasn't eating Fruit Wrinkles in front of the tv after school.

Look at this machine:

Machines 

And this one:

Wrapping_machine 

The intrepid viewer will also note that this is a self-portrait, too. You can just make out my fancy red hairnet in the reflection. Mair's in the middle. Brendan is on the left.

Wrappers 

Wrappers2 

I liked the wrappers, too.

And there was more. Snowballs being dusted with coconut. Getting a Warm Caramel log from the production line for a cheeky snack (they're Brendan's favourite so we were allowed.) All of the celebration cakes being decorated. And these guys:

  Silos

They're filled with wafer flour, regular flour and sugar. Crazy.

When we left Brendan gave me three dozen tea cakes and Mair got four dozen Caramel Logs. What a score! What a Health and Safety Man! We can definitely be bribed into brand loyalty. Then we went back to the bakery to buy some stuff, specifically the dark chocolate tea cakes. Then we fell asleep on the train. What a day!

And what do you do with four dozen tea cakes? Well you give a dozen of the dark chocolate ones away to your favorite people and then you force feed your sister about twenty more. Yes, my little skinny sister's trip was very well timed and I can still fit into my clothes. But more on that next post...

March 13, 2008

Big Fish, Little Fish, Purple-Sprouting Broccoli

Fishies_2

It's rainbow season in Glasgow.

Every year there seems to be one stretch of absolutely soul-destroying weather. The four hours of 'light' that we get in the winter is filtered through black clouds that splutter thick and freezing rain. The wind is almost strong enough to knock me over, and I am not a little girl. It makes my office building sway (very nausea inducing). I made the mistake of riding my bike home in some fierce wind a few weeks ago and discovered that a bike can act like a sail in these conditions and thrust you towards traffic and metal posts. Nasty bruises and a couple of tears ensued. Normally this weather arrives in November, but this year it waited until I got home from Christmas. Then it rained for approximately 65 day and nights. That's right. It's not even that bad in the bible.

Now, slowly, the unending deluge of January and February has broken and shattered into the chaos of March weather. It's stunning when I get out of bed these days. Beautiful clear skies and a sunny kitchen. But sometime between when my toast pops and I blowdry my hair, the clouds will settle. And then the rain comes in little bursts that like to coordinate themselves with the walk from my flat to the train (then they stop for a few minutes), only to start again once more as I trudge from the train station into work. For the next few hours the skies will do absolutely anything they fancy. Sun, rain, sleet, hail, snow, more sun (extra blinding this time) and many, many more forms of percipitation. It tries pretty hard to rain exactly when I leave work and head for the train. But there's always a new kind of weather sneaking up, and that's when we get rainbows. Loads of them. I think I've seen six in the last few weeks. Plus the flowers are out and the trees have started to blossom and all of this makes the moss growing between my toes somehow easier to bare.

You have to grab these little burst of perfect weather. And you have to have faith that no matter how unbearably grim it is presently, there's a chance it could be ok or even nice in a half an hour. Otherwise you cry. Or move to another city.

On Sunday J and I went for a stroll. We got the idea for a walk when I woke up stupidly early and started demanding toast and tea and banging on about the pretty sun and flowers outside. J decided to get me out of his flat as quickly as possible. But by this time it was raining so we punctuated our walk with dashes to bus shelters and visits to the lovely shops of Great Western Road. We browsed until the sun came out and then leisurely strolled again until the rain made us flee into a store again.

Along the way we picked up a bunch of parsley, three meyer lemons (yes, in Glasgow. It's pretty much becoming San Francisco it's so culinarily advanced) and a couple of bunches of purple-sprouting broccoli. Do you know about this stuff, North Americans? I didn't before now. This plant was the original broccoli of Europe. It grows all over Britain and the Northern and Central parts of the continent. The regular green stuff came from Italy and was exported first to France long, long ago and then to absolutely everywhere else. But this purple-sprouting stuff is still around. It has a pretty short season in from late February to the end of March and it's little buds really are purple, although they turn a dark green when cooked. The plant has many long and slender stems, a bit like rapini, but unlike most of the other members of its family, it has a very delicate and sweet and lovely flavour. Some people compare it to asparagus. I am not asparagus's number one best friend so I would say that it's better, but regardless, you can use it in many of the same settings and it tastes just as much of Spring. No weird pee thing though.

I went back to my house and thought about what to make with all of these lovely things. I would aslo have had a nap and watched some soaps had the sun not chosen that moment to break through once more. Now, if anyone needs a clear indication of how one's environment can affect their behaviour, this is it. I am the biggest devotee to napping that I know. I can easily have three in a day and still sleep well at night. Sunday naps are about as vital to me as beer, a good book and dark brown eyeliner. Crucial to survival. But as I was missing a few things for dinner, as the ever-changing weather had separated me from my bike for days, as I actually do required a bit of Vitamin D to survive, I kissed my nap goodbye and rode off to fish counter of the grocery store.

That's where I got these guys.

Fin

Some whole and gutted mackerel. It's a good time of year for them, too. You should try to buy line-caught ones, but that wasn't an option for me, unfortunately.

It rained while I was in the grocery store.

It stopped by the time I left, but my bike seat was wet. Comfy.

I now had everything I needed for a great dinner and exactly 45 minutes to get back to J's in time for the beginning of the final Crufts show (my love for dog shows is profound and inexplicable).

Dinner came together during the dog dancing component (horrifying). It was a speedy, delicious and well-timed affair.

Basically I made a rough saucy mix from:

-one whole lemon chopped really small

-A lot of chopped parsley

- A tin of anchovies, once again chopped

- And some garlic cut up real, real small (some would say chopped)

Half of this mix I stuffed into the fish bellies (once they had been washed and dried). I then stuck them in a hot oven (about 400 degrees).

Just before this, I had removed all the broccoli stalks from the tough inner stem (don't eat it!) and they were ready to be steamed). My pasta water was also ready to boil. Both of these things started to happen at the same time, and by the time the pasta was cooked and the broccoli lightly steamed, the fish was roasted. Perfect.

I threw the rest of my anchovy parsley mix in a frying pan and cooked it through quickly. The pasta went in with a bit of fresh lemon juice, and then the whole thing was piled onto plates.

Purple_broccoli_2

I made J's look pretty just so he would say 'wow' when I put the plate down in from of him and he would once more remember that I am the best girlfriend out there.

The picture above is of my plate, and I don't need to remind myself of how great I am, so it's ugly. I also apparently don't need to attempt to remove the killer bones in my fish. Pretty gruesome, huh? (Don't look, Jess) Anyway, the hounds were being judged and I was hungry so this was the best picture possible.

The verdict of this dish: Big hit. And the giant schnauzer deserved it.

I think there's a moral to this story about grabbing opportunities and fresh vegetables while you can. And about finding silver linings and stuff. I'd love to try and find some sort of subtle and clever way to wrap this up, but unfortunately my favorite sister, my little Squirt, is coming on the train very soon and I have to go and grab her now. You can follow our adventures next week.

March 11, 2008

Delia Smith: An Apology to Nigella

Originally, I wasn't going to write about Delia's new show (Mondays: 8:30 BBC 2)for a few reasons:

- Since I was born and raised in the colonies, I will never understand the complete devotion to Delia rampant in the UK. I can appreciate her and use her (old) recipes, but in this respect I will always be an outsider. She's just not in my bones.

- Her new book is called "How to Cheat" and is aimed at the population who would rather eat takeaways than cook. It's not aimed at me. As a result I've decided not to waste a lot of time taking it personally.

- Bashing this show is going to be a pretty popular and easy past time. The basic premise is to use as many tinned, frozen and already-prepared items as possible and do none of that 'scary' cooking at all. Instead you serve your family something that's full of crap, but crap that you've lovingly spooned into a tray and warmed through yourself making it a lot better than the crap that's already in a tray at the supermarket. Her book is very specific about the products you use and a single recipe could mean that you to go to four different stores for all the required brands. This approach is horrible for the environment, loads the meals up with unnecessary additives and preservatives, takes an awful lot of time and is hardly cost-effective. The whole thing is clearly just designed to squeeze some more money from her very lucrative brand. It's just gross and it's not really what the British public need.

Anyway, last night I perversely watched the first show already knowing that it would make me queasy. And it did; it was a brutal assault for anyone who likes cooking or eating food.  I experienced all of the outrage and indignation that I had anticipated and was not convinced that cooking with prepared frozen potato products was anywhere near a good idea. But I did have a modestly surprising thought: I really wanted to apologize to Nigella.

Yes, her show was lazy and expensive and not very instructive, but at least she's eccentric and pretty entertaining. At least she has a baroque vocabulary. And her food is meant to be fun. She also cuts a few things on screen, unlike Delia who had absolutely everything prepared in advance and did not pick up a knife once. And she eats the things she makes. Endlessly. I mean, of course that's her whole schtick, but it was definitely not something that Delia did. She did demand that her camera guy take a slurp of soup at some point, but that was it. Basically, Nigella's last series was lazy, but at least it was joyful. And at least you only had to go to Marks and Spencers for all the expensive and lazy ingredients.

Delia also stole pretty much the whole style book from Nigella for the new show. Soft-focus shots of kitchen prep, jazzy soundtrack, little snippets of her life and wacky pottery collection (but all a lot drabber and boringer). If Nigella is the sensual, flowing food seductress, Delia is trying for the stilted and rigid suburban dominatrix. It was sort of sad and I think there would be legal battles if both series weren't made for BBC2.

Um, and Nigel Slater eating her mashed potato cake *and* validating her new cooking methods? Horrifying. You broke my heart, Nigel, you of the easy and real meals. Hugh would never have done that to me. And it has nothing to do with his Channel 4 contract.

You know who gets the easy/convenient/product-promoting thing right? Jamie Oliver in his Sainsbury's adverts. It's fine to spend 30 seconds making food that consists of opening three packages and heating them up. And at least it's clear who's writing the paychecks.

March 05, 2008

Answers to Your Google Searches: Matzoh Meal in Glasgow

Slide1

This week someone googled: matzoh meal glasgow and clicked on my site hoping to find some answers.

Did I provide them? No.

I have never found matzoh meal in Glasgow; I import it from London. But soon this cosmopolitan affectation may no longer be necessary. On a recent visit to the Buchanan Galleries location of Sainsbury's, I spotted a sign that said that their "full range of passover products" would be available by the middle of March. So that's a good sign, right? I'll try and take a picture of what a "full range of passover products" looks like in Glasgow. Who knows what this could mean? Could Manischewitz start breaking the Buckfast market?

While I'm plugging that location, I'll also mention that they do stock regular matzoh pretty much year-round. If passover doesn't bring matzoh meal, you can easily make your own by crushing up some matzohs in a blender.

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FARMERS' MARKET UPDATE

For all of you silly people who still live in the West End, you should know that your farmers' market has changed location. It won't be held at Mansfield Park anymore, but will now set up at Dowanhill Primary School (30 Havelock St, just west of Byres Road). It'll be there this Saturday. This time of year the veg selection is a bit grim, but it's a good place to find meat, fish and baked goods.

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March may turn out to be a field trip month. There are some really exciting ones percolating. Cross your fingers. The focus of these trips will not be 'health' so I would recommend that you eat a lot of whole grains and fruit and vegetables between posts. That's what I do, I swear.

March 04, 2008

Bunny Boiler: a Wild Rabbit Ragu

Deadhare_2

The work cycle of an artist could be roughly described in the following seven phases:

I) Dabbling with Ideas: This is the fun part of being an artist. The time when they are alone and can make very ugly things that will never be seen, research tentative connections between frog toes and baroque textiles, write a few important notes about their practice and just eat some candy while hanging out in their studio. It's a time free from pressure and responsibility and it's the best time to have a little chat with them.

II) Proposing: Once you have ideas, you need a place to house them and if you are lucky, a few people to come and look at your work while drinking free beer. To accomplish this you need to pen many long and illustrative letters to selection committees, galleries, friends and enemies in the hopes that they will give you a show or some money or, miracle of miracles, both. During this phase an artist will spend a lot of time picking the right paper on which to print their CV, selecting a font that is at once contemporary and eye-ball-searingly memorable while not being too "unique" or (heaven forbid) "artsy". They will photoshop madly and streams of curly bullshit phrases will pour onto application forms. They will dream about their future opportunities, smiling in their hopeful sleep.

III) Mass Rejection: Almost all of the proposals the artist sends will get turned down. This will make them a quivering mass of self-hate and insecurity and bitterness and make them question all of their life decisions and make them dream of being a civil servant.

IV) A Glimmer of Acceptance: Now and then someone will be conned into giving the artist something. The artist will always feel deep, deep down like they have pulled one over on their benefactor. But curiously, most artists are also endowed with a quiet belief that they are the undiscovered saviour of contemporary art and so will be pleased that they are finally being recognized for their genius. This pleasure will last for a couple of weeks during which time the artist makes no work, simply content in their own gloried existence.

V) Anticipating the Show: Although the show seemingly answers all of the artist's dreams for recognition and communication, it is still a hellish endeavour. There is the work that must be created, completely awful ideas that must be separated out from the inspired ones, outfits to plan and guests to invite. The artist will at times be peaceful with their work, in love with it, revolted by it, demoralized by it and now and then gripped by the thought that they are only copying something better that they saw once. It is best to avoid the artist during this period as they are intolerably moody and pretty convinced that everyone else's life has paused in observance of their creative flurry.

VI) The Show Arrives!: Prior to the opening of the exhibition, the artist will have spent a number of hours crying or panicking about the disaster they are about to unveil. They will sublimate that despair into perfecting their outfit. When they arrive at the gallery on the big night, they will see that the work is actually ok (at least when compared to the other crap normal on view) and will quickly reach for a drink. They will get drunk and believe the guests when they say nice things about the art.

VII) Post-Show Depression: Following the show the artist will have temporarily used up all their ideas and will not have anything planned for the immediate future. They are no longer the Art Princess of the day. This makes them even moodier than the time leading up to the show. Definitely avoid them. Give them a call again when they are back to the first or second phase.

In between all of this activity there is the fundamental requirement to network and make connections with people that might one day be useful. That is, to go to galleries, get liquored up, engage in awkward and/or drunk conversation with casual acquaintances, and either feel stabs of jealousy at the tangible success of the exhibiting artists, waves of smugness at the junk other people put on show, or utter boredom. Unless the work has been created by one of our best friends, or one of our art heroes (in which case we will fall hopelessly in love with every speck), the judgments will be swift and often brutally dismissive. But don't judge us too harshly in return. Making art, submitting proposals, getting rejected, is a rough business that doesn't offer many rewards. To venture out on the town and look at other people's work all the while troweling over the septic insecurities within requires a great deal of effort. It is only natural to put up barriers and to be a bit defensive or catty.

This was pretty much my weekend. It wasn't really that bad. Fortunately I am out of stage 7 and back to stage 1 or 2, but after attending five openings in 24 hours, the art scene can start to feel a bit empty and pretty removed from the stuff you get up to during an afternoon in your studio (i.e. art). You realize that you're interested primarily in chatting with your friends, watching the crowd and drinking as much free alcohol as is socially acceptable (which in Scotland = infinite). You realize that your life regularly borders on the ridiculous and absurdly indulgent. Not that I want to knock the art scene too much; subcultures are generally ridiculous under scrutiny. It's not like the food world is much better.   

But how do you combat that? How can one become grounded again?

Well, some people have these things called responsibilities like caring for elderly parents or looking after children or renovating their basements and I am pretty sure that these activities are really good at providing them with perspective. I don't have any of these, but I did have a grounding moment in the kitchen when I cooked something that made me scared.

Bunny_ragu

Doesn't look scary up there, does it?

But in fact the sauce above is made from a wild bunny that slowly stewed for over two hours. A whole, skinned wild bunny that I casually bought at the farmers' market the day before (along with some lamb. Bunny and lamb! It must be spring). I was pretty confident that I could cook it without any problem.

On a bright Sunday afternoon, I was alone in the house and ready to tackle this meat. I cleaned the kitchen a bit, sharpened my knife and took the bunny out of the fridge. My confidence waned. I was mostly sure the bunny had lost its head, paws and guts already, but it was impossible to say with 100% certainty. I have never seen a whole skinned rabbit so had nothing to compare this vacuum-sealed flesh in front of me. I really didn't want it to have a head or to have eyeballs. I let it sit on the counter for a bit and had some juice. It crossed my sometimes squeamish mind that now wouldn't be a good time for low blood sugar.

I went back to the bunny and cut into the plastic, lowering the body into the sink.

The bright red piece of meat that was lying at the bottom of my kitchen sink didn't have a head, but still seemed very much alive. This was not the carcass of a factory animal that had quietly acquiesced, but an active little critter that had been shot dead in a field. You could see the ragged flesh and dark, clotted blood around the bullet wound near its front paws. There was still the occasional hair on its back that I tried to wash off. There was a lot more residual blood than a chicken would ever leak and a dark smell of raw, gamey meat was everywhere in the kitchen.

I carried it across the kitchen and placed it on the cutting board. The first step of the recipe was to joint it, or remove the legs and cut the "saddle" (its back) into a few chunks. I have a good knife that can cut a chicken to shreds so I felt that with some determination, bunny bits would be browning in my pot soon enough. An initial hack at a back leg with my knife did nothing but graze the meat and inform me that I was a stupid city girl. Animal bones are a lot harder than chicken carcass. That's why people invented cleavers. I'm just telling you this in case you're as naive as I was. Since I was already using the biggest knife in our house, this meant that the rabbit would have to be hacked and pulled apart with my hands. I write this as a former vegetarian and someone very fond of most small things. It was difficult. I managed to chop and pull and break the little body enough to get one leg off and then the other, although the bottom of the spine and tail bone were still attached too. It was a good thing all of the meat was going to be pulled off the bones for the sauce; I could never have served that carnage. I then cut the flesh all around the spine and snapped a section off. At this point I could no longer think about what I was doing. At this point a creamy white tube slumped out of the meat. It was the bunny's spinal cord. I was glad my blood sugar levels were in check. I cut the cord, and quickly made another incision into the chest cavity, and quickly saw something that liked like a liver or kidney, and quickly decided that it would be just fine to leave the front section intact. I had done enough cutting.

I was freaked out, placing the meat in the hot pan and watching it sizzle and get brown. I hadn't killed the animal, but by washing it, placing my hands on its delicate spine, breaking it apart, its death, all death was palpable. The bunny was also wild, (probably pretty) organic, local, in abundance, delicious. Qualities that I want in food. It was a good reminder that when you choose the non-sanitized option, things can get messy and uncomfortable. And that this shouldn't be avoided, but that you should remember to drink some juice first so you don't faint.

The rest of the recipe was pretty easy and the results were delicious. You can find it here, along with a very good intro on why we should eat wild bunny (although, not now. It's about to be baby bunny season and the little guys need their parents. I got this one just in time. You should wait a bit).  The only thing I did differently was at the last stock-reducing stage. I had a lot of stock and it would have taken ages to reduces so I put all of the meat in the tomato sauce, and ladled the boiling and reducing stock into the tomato meat pan a bit at a time. That way the stock reduction was sped up a bit. Otherwise, the recipe was great and the sauce was amazing.

I served it to Lady Jules later on that evening with a warm salad of butter lettuce, pan-fried pumpkin, pumpkin seeds and parmesan. We had caramel and pear soup for dessert. We may have had some wine. We chatted for ages and I hoped that she would always be around to share meals with me and laugh at the difficulties in our often silly lives.