Kedgeree, Absorption Style

Kedgeree is the kind of dish that seems entirely mysterious when you read about it in British novels. Both exotic and a staple, its the kind of food that protagonists fortify themselves with at breakfast before heading out to sea/off on the moors/away to do colonial things involving the Raj. No one thinks kedgeree without thinking about the Raj. It's also one of those words that I've read many times, but never really had the chance to hear or say out loud back in Canada. Sometimes, when my relationship with a word has been primarily visual, I'm not that careful to actually decode the correct sounds. So even though I read k-e-d-g-e-r-e-e, my mind says kedegree, as in rhymes with 'pedigree'. I know this isn't right, so now when I do say the word (it happens sometimes), I have to pause for a second, get the right sounds in place, and then proceed with the sentence. Overriding these transposed letters that my brain won't keep straight. Trying not to sound like an idiot. It's tiring.

But this is about more than just an intriguing dish with a tricky name. About once a week I want a simple and healthy dinner featuring lots of vegetables and fish. The truth is, if the oceans weren't so barren and poisoned, I would eat fish and vegetables for dinner every second night. Pasta would go in between. Food like this just makes you feel so clean and light. Plus it is excellent for dodgy digestive disorders. There's just nothing for your body to reject.

I have a standard recipe that I normally turn to and which we can discuss at a later date, and it's a lovely colourful plate of food. But I wanted a change. I wanted something involving fewer ingredients. I decided on kedgeree.  The dish as it is understood today is a corruption/amalgam of both a Scottish dish and an Indian dish that gained popularity during the time of British rule and then was brought back to the UK where it is still eaten fondly. It was traditionally served for breakfast made with just-caught fish. 

Typically the dish involves frying cold, cooked rice in onions and spices and serving it with parsley, boiled eggs and smoked white fish (often haddock). Guess which parts Scotland and India contributed to the mix. Now, I love fried rice, but I wanted a less greasy meal. So instead I approached my kedgeree a bit like a risotto. I started the onion and uncooked rice and spices in oil and then added broth until everything was cooked. Not only did this make for a bit of a lighter dish, the flavours of the spices had a chance to really infuse the rice over the longer cooking period. It worked - this method is good. It was delicious and it made me feel Victorian for half an hour.

Two things:

1) If I had some already-cooked rice in the fridge, I would do it the fried way in the future. 

2) This is an excellent application of pre-mixed, mild yellow curry powder. Every once in a while this spice blend is the ticket. I know it lacks cred, but it's taste and colour are so specific, in an application like this there's no sense in messing around with anything more complicated. Get the old, mostly forgotten jar from the back of your spice rack and use it with abandon. Bright yellow!

Ingredients:

(serves at least 4)

4 boiled eggs

400g smoked haddock (thanks Grier)

one chopped onion

approx 300g (long grain) rice

yellow curry powder (or your own precious blend)

chicken/vegetable stock

parsley

cream/whole milk (optional)

Method:

1. Boil your eggs if you haven't done this already

2. Gently fry the onions in some oil, add some salt and the curry powder. I ended up adding loads during the cooking process, so just adjust as needed.

3. Add your rice, coat the grains in oil and after a few minutes, ladle in some stock.

4. Continue to add stock and stir the rice until absorbed, just as you would if you were making risotto. Stop when the rice is cooked through, but before it gets mushy. This will take about 20 minutes.

5. 10 minutes before the rice is done, place the haddock in a pot and just cover with water. Bring to a boil and lower to a simmer for approximately 6 minutes. Take the fish out, remove any skin and bones, flake the flesh and reserve.

6. Once the rice has finished, stir in the parsley, a bit of cream if you want it, adjust seasoning and add the flaked fish and chopped egg.

7. Eat!

Comments

[grier]

So I wanted to make Kedgeree last night...not so easy to find smoked haddock in Montreal. Nae fish pie, kedgeree, or cullen skink for me for a wee while.

[katie]

Yes. It should definitely be smoked. That's a mistake; I'll correct it. Glad you're still keeping me in check even from a million miles away! xxx

[grier]

Is Kedgeree supposed to be smoked haddock? I have only had it once and I thought I remember it being smoked.