The damsons were the size of rotund grapes. So small, they certainly didn't look like plums. And when you bit into them, there was a pucker and a wince. Their bright yellow flesh sour and bitter.
Contrary to the signals your brain was firing, the atomic pulp of the greengages was nothing but sweetness. Already jammy before it went in the pot.
There is nothing to making these jams. I bought approximately a pound and a half (600 g) of each kind and stood at the counter, slowly pitting them. First the damsons went in the copper pot with a tiny bit of water and a good amount of sugar. As the juices released and the fruit started to bubble slowly, more sugar was added to taste. Judged by dipping a small parade of teaspoons in the hot syrup until the sweetness balanced out the tart bitterness of the fruit. After adding almost as much sugar as fruit, I let the jam simmer until it clung to the spoon, no longer threatening to slip off.
Old jars were sterilised in boiling water and lined up on a clean tea towel and I decanted the royal purple jam, trying to be careful, trying not to spill, almost succeeding. The colour is surprising. With their yellow interiors you never suspect that the resulting jam will be such a uniform and profound hue.
Lids go on, and the jars are turned upside down to create a seal.
And then the procedure repeats for the greengages, but as they are already quite sweet, just a fraction of the sugar is required. Sugar is surreptitiously bulky and adding less gives a smalled yield and a runnier texture. Once again it cooks slowly until the plums lose their shape and become a puddle of thick, sticky liquid. Once again, the hot green jam is carefully spooned into jars.
Despite these rituals, I have no faith in my processes. So I make a small amount and keep it all in the fridge.
It doesn't matter. Jam is an embellishment. There is none of the pressure of dinner, the expectations of a cake. If, somehow, it doesn't work, no one will notice. It won't be missed. If it does, it's an unexpected joy. A tiny gift.
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